
For the first time in many months, I served a “ladies lunch” to my aunt and her daughter who has lived in Paris for the last twenty years.
This particular social occasion requires the same attention to detail as a major holiday meal, but not as much heavy labor. It’s a good way to keep the house in fighting trim. It was fun to build a menu around local food, make chicken gumbo for someone who’d never enjoyed it, and sit at a private table catching up on the family.
My uncle collects antiques, and once dessert had disappeared, my cousin said, “May I look at the bottom of this saucer?”
I had forgotten that there are people who really, really care about dishes. I told Ell to go right ahead, and we carried on about the history of English china, smiling at her loving imitation of Uncle Landon handling an interesting piece of porcelain. China was an early product of the industrial revolution. At twenty-two, I unwittingly chose the first pattern produced in England, a frank copy of ware that had previously been imported from Asia. The beautiful, durable decorations of early patterns must have been a visual feast in the eighteenth-century countryside.
Before the ceramic innovations of post war Japan brought decent, inexpensive dishes to American import stores, one had a choice of cheap pottery that cracked, chipped, and often had poisonous glaze or a much more expensive piece from a reputable maker. My mother trained me to check the back of a dish. If it had no mark, I was to shun it. The advice still holds true and is a good way to stay out of trouble in thrift stores.
Today’s market offers a huge range of safe, affordable, elegant dishes. Ell, who grew up in a living museum, agreed that the children’s tea sets from the big box Northern European chain are truly wonderful pieces of design. The topic of tiny dishes came up as we examined the dessert tray, an assortment of pastries from a killer local shop. I mentioned that I had decided to cut each offering into pieces so that we could sample them all and pretend to diet at the same time. This is the M&M theory of food presentation.
The simplest way to set a table is to choose an open stock pattern from a responsible company and buy the works. Get a design that goes from freezer to microwave, oven to table. Decide how many places you want to set before reverting to paper or a party supplier, get twice as many salad plates, bowls, and coffee cups as place settings, and buy a few identical serving dishes of moderate size and a couple of round platters.
A plain design will mix easily with odd serving pieces and varied linens. It will not impose on attention. Life is saturated with incoming visual information from print, video, and the road. In 2010, I look for serenity at the table rather than stimulation.
Stack dishes with protective mats between them to defend the glaze from the rough foot of the piece above it. I use substantial paper napkins or flimsy paper plates in various sizes.
My set of dishes has been cheaper in the long run than the utilitarian offerings that were available when I chose it. The pattern is durable, elegant, and versatile. When I was feeding kids every day, I set it aside in favor of expendable thrift store finds. From those stray plates and bowls I learned that the surviving pieces of a set are nearly indestructible. In retrospect, I could just as well have used my originals.
My pattern had been in open stock for three hundred years when I chose it, but the company shut down production around 1980. When I discovered a matching service, I bought a few extra pieces in each size to have back-up in case something broke, but there has been so little damage that the spare pieces just remind me what the glaze on the originals looked like before it accumulated its fine haze of minute scratches. I stack the dishes with the most pristine on the bottom, so that when it’s time to set a company table, I know which units to deal out to the family.
It turns out that my deep and enduring love is for classic white coffee-shop stoneware. Forty-five years of service has turned the plates at the top of my stacks into colleagues of Homer Laughlin, and I no longer hesitate to put them to work in almost any situation. As a young woman, I opted for high-end stoneware, reasoning that pottery was too fragile and bone china too formal. One set of dishes has carried the house all these years and shows no sign of ever letting us down.
My grandmother bought me a milk mug that had “All gone!” printed on the bottom of the interior. I wish a zany young designer would produce a set of dishes that are decorated only on the back, in the coved area protected by the unglazed foot of the piece, where the manufacturer’s mark is set. Perhaps a maker could apply an extravagant, graffiti oriented mark to advance ceramics’ subtle history of letter design.
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More after the jump.